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MENS FASHION – FORMAL

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HOW TO CUSTOMIZE FORMAL WEAR FROM Huntsman Creative Director, Campbell Carey

BLACK TIE – FORMAL

Why is it called ‘Black Tie’?

Because, literally, you literally wear a black bow tie – and traditionally a black coat.
As for the alternative, ‘tuxedo’? That’s believed to have started in the late 19th century when an American, James Potter-Brown, attended a soiree in the where he spotted the then Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) wearing a tail-less evening coat, shaped like a smoking jacket, which he favoured for less formal occasions at his Sandringham Estate. Potter-Brown asked after the Prince’s tailor – Henry Poole – where he promptly had made a similar garment, which caught on at his local haunt, the Tuxedo Club in Tuxedo Park.
The lapels and buttons for your dinner jacket
A traditional dinner jacket has either peak lapels or shawl lapels, though more modern cuts might now use notch lapels.Whatever the shape, they are finished in silk and colour-matched to the coat, with the buttons having the same silk covering.
One last lapel-related matter: the buttonhole must be a real hole, in order to accommodate a flower.

Single or double-breasted?
Both styles of coat are perfectly acceptable, but since waistcoats need not be worn with a double-breasted jacket they are marginally less formal.

Getting the right shirt
Your shirt, to paraphrase Henry Ford, can be any colour you like, so long as its white – save your flourishes of colour for your silk scarf or pocket square. (Then again, all rules are made to be broken. Just don’t say you weren’t warned.) In terms of the material, though, always go for a Marcella cotton, whose natural texture will really add to the contrast between black and white.

The Huntsman RTW shirts can be adjusted to match your figure with our Made to Measure service. A wealth of choices are available to you: over 1,000 different fabrics, as well as six cuff shapes and another four collar styles. For that extra special touch, monograms can be added to the front or cuff in your preferred colour and material.

When Black Tie goes blue
Black is best, in almost all cases. But a very dark midnight blue can work as well, and in some lights can actually appear just as black (and sometimes blacker) than a ‘true’ black. If you’re feeling brave, you might just pull off the James Bond look – white coat, black trousers – particularly in warmer climates. But avoid all-white at all costs.

The cloth weight
Go for a relatively lightweight cloth – 250g – as even in winter the venue will probably be both heated and full of your fellow revellers.

Trousers

Brace tops, without turn-ups, and the seam finish on the trousers should always be in the same silk used on the lapels.

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Huntsman-Bespoke-Style-Advice-Formal-2

Both styles of coat are perfectly acceptable, but since waistcoats need not be worn with a double-breasted jacket they are marginally less formal.

Huntsman-Bespoke-Style-Advice-Formal-1

A traditional dinner jacket has either peak lapels or shawl lapels, though more modern cuts might now use notch lapels.Whatever the shape, they are finished in silk and colour-matched to the coat, with the buttons having the same silk covering.
One last lapel-related matter: the buttonhole must be a real hole, in order to accommodate a flower.

Where can you find custom  tailored coats, handmade shoes and complimentary custom made pocket squares and bold patterns in the US? You are in luck, you can get custom tailored menswear in New York on the East Coast and California on the West Coast.

Saville Row will come to you.. YES.

London Cutter Ralph Fitzgerald Moullet now provides a full cutting service at our NY pied à terre, all year round. Ralph also joins the Head Cutters Campbell Carey and Dario Carnera on some of their quarterly visit to our clients in the region. They bring bespoke tailoring samples curated for the region, as well as cloth bunches from leading British and Italian mills and our collection of exclusive Huntsman house tweeds and suitings.

They visit the West Coast every quarter, as well as upon request for a nominal fee. Head Cutter Dario Carnera, USA Director Ed Turco and Senior Client Manager Michael Anderson are regulars to the area, meeting customers old and new for fittings and orders.

 

For inquiries or to make an appointment, call the New York representative at: +1 646 590 2595.

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