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The Men’s Fall Shoe Invasion has started. The secret is out, Men love Shoes just as much as women. We have compiled some very sleek handmade men’s shoes that we think the contemporary man will love. Albeit not every man can afford the Italian handmade shoe, we thought it would be interesting to include Carmina’s shoe making process. We asked them how they made the beautiful handmade men’s shoes and below is the process.

While  in Paris, we had an opportunity to visit Carmina Shoemaker. The shoes are made using the traditional Goodyear stitch and are submitted to a strict quality control process. The shoes are made by a team of skilled craftsmen who carefully handle each stage of production:

1. Creating the last

The master last-maker creates a wooden mould by hand after completing an ergonomic analysis of the foot to combine comfort and aesthetic appeal.

Handmade Men's Shoes by Carmina Shoemakers

2. Tracing the pattern

This tradition is no longer used by most fabricants of this kind of shoe, but they continue to use it as part of the production process. It consists of drawing the model directly onto the wooden shoe last.

3. Creating the pattern

The lines traced on the last in three dimensions are transferred to a two-dimensional pattern that indicates the cut of the pieces of leather and lining for the upper part of the shoe

4. Selecting the materials

We use meticulously selected materials from only the best sources. They are always stored at the same temperature so that they acquire the texture needed for cutting. We specialise in treating shell cordovan leather, a highly prized animal skin of exquisite quality.

Carmina Shoemakers Collection of Handmade Men's  shoes

Carmina Shoemakers Collection of Handmade shoes

5. Cutting

Wingtip Handmade Shoes by Carmina Men's Shoemakers

Wingtip Handmade Shoes by Carmina Shoemakers

Cutting is always done by hand, piece by piece, pair by pair. Later, the pieces are evened out in bulk to guarantee a perfect assembly and stitch.

6. Stitching

All pieces, including the lining and reinforcements, are carefully sewn together with thread made of cotton and acrylic to ensure that the backstitch is as tense as possible, which in turn guarantees long-lasting quality.

7. Assembly

The leather is fitted over the last in a semimanual process. With the help of humid heat, the leather is perfectly moulded to the volume and shape of the last. Once assembly is completed, the shoe is left on the last for four days, so that it will acquire the permanent form that ensures its durability.

Hatch Grain Jumper Handmade Men's Shoes by Carmina Shoemakers

Hatch Grain Jumper Handmade Shoes by Carmina Shoemakers

8. Stitching the welts and soles

The welt (connection between sole and upper shoe) is stitched and the gap it leaves is filled with a natural compound of cork and ground sole leather that is 1-centimetre thick. Given the malleable properties of this compound, each foot (once the shoe is put on) creates its own natural mould after several days’ use.

9. De-welting or evening the edges

The next step is evening out the edges of the platform, preparing the shoe for the heel attachment. This is done with layers of sole laid one upon the other to obtain a compact body that will never crack or shift.

10. Painting and shine

The sole edges and undersides are painted with wax and carnauba palm wax dyes to obtain a natural, long-lasting shine that embellishes the shoe.

Handmade Men's Shoes by Carmina Shoemakers

Ermine Hair Brushed Handmade Shoes by Carmina Shoemakers

11. Finishing touches

The leather is treated with waxes and beeswaxes with ermine-hair brushes and tinsel cloth. This is how we obtain the multi-toned polish, avoiding a uniform brilliancy and achieving the patina of a used shoe.

 

GOOD NEWS! CARMINA HANDMADE MEN’S SHOES ARE AVAILABLE IN THE USA

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D'Angelo Van Michaels

D'Angelo Van Michaels is the Men's Fashion Editor for Publicity Magazine. With more than 20 years as a Fashion merchandiser and professional model, he has travels to 5 continents and top fashion cities around the world. He lives in Atlanta.

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